Imagine a 26-year-old culinary prodigy, once dubbed the 'Justin Bieber of food,' now orchestrating a symphony of California-inspired flavors in the heart of New York City. But here's where it gets controversial: Is Flynn McGarry's latest venture, Cove, a triumphant return to his West Coast roots, or a risky departure from the Nordic influences that defined his earlier work? Dive into this story, and you'll discover the answer—and much more.
Flynn McGarry, the wunderkind chef who cooked his way through Thomas Keller’s French Laundry Cookbook at just 10 years old, is back with his most ambitious project yet. Cove, nestled in Hudson Square, marks McGarry’s fifth New York opening in a decade. On the second night of friends-and-family previews, the energy is palpable. McGarry, breathless and commanding, calls out orders in his vast open kitchen: 'Fire two corn fritters! Fluke! Tomato!' The scene is a testament to his relentless drive, honed since his days running a supper club out of his family home in California’s San Fernando Valley at age 11.
And this is the part most people miss: Cove isn’t just a restaurant—it’s a love letter to California’s raw materials and melting-pot spirit. McGarry, who once tried to 'ignore the California in me,' has now fully embraced his West Coast roots. The menu is a celebration of his home state, from slivered raw fluke topped with fresh-grated California wasabi to a warm sweet potato and fig cake. 'Every California chef has these immigrant influences—Mexico, Japan,' McGarry explains. 'I’ve started to take a larger view of the idea of California, because nobody really knows what Californian food is.'
But the night isn’t without its challenges. As the kitchen toggles between an eight-course tasting menu and à la carte dishes, delays creep in. The speakers, playing a jazzy mix from The Soul Surfers to Jean-Luc Godard’s Breathless, overheat. McGarry admits, 'This is why we have friends and family, so we’re ready for a stranger to come in.' It’s a candid reminder that even the most seasoned chefs face hurdles.
In a private dining room, McGarry’s girlfriend, design publicist Amanda Lee Burkett, hosts a family-style feast for their inner circle—furniture designers, stylists, photographers, and art dealers. McGarry, a design fanatic and amateur carpenter, has infused Cove with his aesthetic sensibilities, even enlisting Grain Wood Studio’s Robert Williams for bespoke pieces. The atmosphere is more dinner party than restaurant banquet, a testament to McGarry’s ability to blend hospitality and artistry.
Here’s a thought-provoking question: As McGarry redefines Californian cuisine, is he setting a new standard for culinary identity, or is he blurring the lines too much? Share your thoughts in the comments—we want to hear from you!
Cove is now open for bookings on OpenTable. Don’t miss the chance to experience McGarry’s bold, boundary-pushing vision firsthand. Will you be among the first to taste the future of Californian cuisine?
